Correct sewing machine needle for knit fabric (jersey, stretch & rib knits)

With the launch of the Pepper sewing pattern coming soon, I wanted to talk about something that makes all the difference: using the correct sewing machine needle for knit fabrics.

It’s a small swap that will save you the headache of troubleshooting why does my sewing machine skip stitches on knit fabric 🫠

Why you can’t just use any needle for knits

Knit fabrics are constructed differently to woven fabrics. Instead of tightly criss-crossed threads, they’re made from loops of yarn. That’s what gives them their stretch and drape.

When you use a standard universal needle, the sharp tip can pierce and damage those loops which can cause:

• Skipped stitches

• Popped seams

• Little holes along your stitch line

• Uneven, messy topstitching

And we absolutely do not need that kind of drama!

Jersey (ballpoint) vs stretch needle: what’s the difference?

When sewing knit fabrics, you’ll usually choose between:

1. Jersey needle

A jersey (ballpoint) needle has a slightly rounded tip. Instead of piercing through the fibres, it gently pushes between the loops of the knit fabric.

This means:

• Fewer skipped stitches

• Less damage to the fabric

• Smoother seams

Ballpoint needles are great for:

• Stable knits

• Cotton jersey

• Interlock

• French terry

If your knit fabric has moderate stretch and feels fairly stable, start with a jersey needle.

2. Stretch Needle

Stretch needles are designed for very stretchy fabrics. They also have a rounded tip, but the eye and scarf (the indentation above the eye) are designed to help prevent skipped stitches when the fabric stretches under the presser foot.

Stretch needles are perfect for:

• Very stretchy jersey

• Rib knit

• Lycra

• Activewear fabrics

If your machine is skipping stitches no matter what you try, switching from a ballpoint to a stretch needle is often the fix.

What size needle should you use for jersey fabric?

As a general guide:

• 70/10 – Lightweight knits

• 75/11 – Lightweight to medium knits

• 80/12 – Medium weight knits

• 90/14 – Heavier knits or thicker ribbing

If you’re sewing something like the Pepper pattern in a cotton jersey, then a 75/11 jersey needle will usually be spot on.

Why does my sewing machine skip stitches on knit fabric?

Your needle might be the cause if:

• Your machine keeps skipping stitches

• The seams pop when stretched

• You see small holes along the seam

• Your thread keeps snapping

Before adjusting your tension or blaming your machine - change the needle first. It’s the quickest, easiest fix.

So before you cut into that lovely jersey you’ve been saving, pop in a fresh jersey needle and set yourself up for success! Your future self will thank you.